Compleat Window Furnishings

Making curtains for arched windows using Rufflette’s Press n Drape Range

Working out fabric requirements:

1.                 Measure dimensions A & B of Arch

(e.g A = 60cm & B = 137cm)

2.                 To find the circumference of the arch multiply A by 3.142

(e.g A = 60cm x 3.142 = 188.52, rounded up = 189cm)

3.                 Multiply the result of step 2  by the required fullness of your chosen curtain tape.

(e.g Press ‘n’ Drape pencil pleat has a fullness of 2.5 so 189 x 2.5 = 472.5, rounded up = 473cm)

This figure is the required fabric width.

Calculating your arch:

4.                 Allowing enough fabric for the side hems (we advise approx. 4cm for each side), join widths together.

Allow an extra 6” (approx) or fabric on dimension B – this is to ensure that the bottom of your curtain can be adjusted to give a horizontal hem.

5.                 With the back of the fabric facing, measure down the edge of distance A.

6.                 Join the top corner and this point with a straight line.

7.                 Hem the sides of fabric and trim the top close to the line. Then sew a Rufflette Press ‘n’ Drape heading tape (either pencil pleat, mini pleat or net pleat) to the fabric following the sewing line as you would with a usual curtain.

Tip – Make sure that the first pleat is vertical and that the raised loops on the tape are at the edge.

Fixing Press ‘n’ Drape Grip tape:

8.                 Affix Rufflette Grip tape to the window frame as close to the inside as possible

9.                 Pleat and affix it to the Grip tape using the edge of the frame as a guide

10.             Once you are happy with the position of the pleats, mark the bottom of the fabric to give it a horizontal hem.

11.             Remove from the window and sew the hem in the correct position and re-affix to the Grip tape.

These instructions and the examples shown are only intended as a rough guide. Measurements may vary.

PRACTICAL GUIDE TO MAKING CURTAINS 2

Cutting out, Sewing seams & hems & Making Straight or shaped valances

Making up:

Cutting out your fabric:

Always lay fabric flat for cutting and use sharp scissors. Measure the first length very carefully and if your material is patterned be careful to match subsequent lengths. Form a straight line across the fabric to the selvedge. Measure each fabric length and mark the cutting point, then check that is correct, always double check measurements before cutting the fabric.

 Making seams:

There are several different types of seams you can use. The right choice takes into

account the weight and thickness of the fabric. Always make sure that you allow enough fabric for your seam allowances, especially if the fabric is likely to fray. Selvedge should either be cut off or snipped diagonally to avoid puckering of the seams.

Flat fell seam - If the curtains are not going to be lined then Flat fell seams should be used. Place the right sides of the fabric together and stitch along the seam line. Trim one edge to within 3mm of the sewing line, and press raw edges together so that the wider edge lies on top. Turn this edge under the narrower and stitch close to the folded edge – then iron.

French seam -  Used when joining widths of net.

Place the wrong sides of fabric together with the edges even.

Stitch along seam line then trim to within 3mm of the sewing line.

Press seam open and turn fabric so that the right sides are together enclosing the raw edges.

Machine along seam line.

Helpful Tips:

Reducing Bulk – Before turning out a seamed corner, trim away the seam allowances, so that they are less bulky and sit flat. Be careful not to cut too close to the stitched line, otherwise frayed edges will pop out on the right side. If the seam is still bulky because the fabric is too thick, snip away more from the seam allowance on each side of the corner in a diagonal line. Use a pointed object such as a pair of scissors to carefully push out the corner on the right side. Be careful not to push through the seam.

Hemming your curtains:

Once you have sewn all the widths together it’s time to hem your curtains. In order to create a flat hem, you must make sure that the fabric lengths are cut straight. As long as you have a straight edge, it is simple to fold over the required amount and press it in place with a steam iron.

Side hems - Firstly sew the side hems. Allow 4cm for each hem. If you don’t have a special attachment for your machine for blind stitching then hand sew side hems. Now you are ready to attach the heading of your choice.

Bottom hems - If possible allow your curtains to hang for one or two days as some fabrics drop or stretch. Bottom hems should be sewn by hand. If you are using Rufflette curtain weighting tape or Penny weights (see practical guide to making curtains part 1) remember to insert along the bottom of the hem and tack at each end to secure.

Making Valances:

Straight Valances:

First estimate the amount of fabric required to make your valances. Decide on the depth and add 15-20cm (depending on chosen heading) to allow for hems and heading. Next measure the valance rail, but remember, because the valance returns to the wall on each side, the valance rail will be longer than the curtain rail.

Now estimate the total amount of fabric you require as you would with curtains.

Making up:

1. Sew your fabric widths together using an open seam for lined valances or a flat fell seam for unlined.
2. Hem the sides of the fabric using a 4cm double turning.
3. Attach the heading tape of your choice.
4. Turn up a double hem at the base of the valance and hem stitch.
5. Following the instructions for your tape, gather the heading and insert curtain hooks. Your valance is now ready to hang.

Shaped Valances:

When estimating the amount of fabric required for a shaped valance, you should first of all decide on your shape, then measure the longest drop. This measurement will be used in your calculations. Calculate as with straight valance.

1. Before cutting out your chosen design or shape, sew the fabric widths together as with straight valance.
2. Before cutting out, it is a good idea to make a paper template first. Remember fullness is dependant upon the heading tape. Allowance for hems and heading should be included in your template.

Make the valance following the instructions for a straight valance. If making a frill, the bottom edge of the valance will require snipping to take into account curves in the design shape.

How to … make curtains - Part 1

Measuring guide, curtain tape and fabric requirements, linings, weighting tape, estimation and help on choosing your fabric.

Preparation:
When measuring for curtains, it may be helpful if the hardware (poles and tracks) are in place before you begin, including carpets or any other flooring for full length curtains. Always use a steel or wooden rule as cloth tapes can stretch, and decide on the type of heading you will be making because it can affect the the location of the pole in relation to the top of the window or the trim.

Measuring you window:
You require two measurements for your window.

1. The width of the curtain pole or track. When measuring make sure you include any overlap arms in the middle.
2. The length of the curtains. There are three standard lengths
   a. The Sill
   b. The Radiator
   c. The Floor
   Whichever you choose always measure from the hook point on the track or pole to your chosen length, then add the height of your chosen heading tape. For the sill and radiator take off 1.5cm. For the floor take off 2.5cm.

Working out tape requirements:
Multiply the width of you pole or track by the fullness of your chosen tape.

Eg.
Width of track or pole - 183cm (72″)
Multiply by 2 ¼ - 2 ¼ x 183cm (72″)
Total tape required - 412cm (162″)
Remember to add on required amount of tape if using a track with an overlap arm.

Working out fabric requirements:
The width of your curtains can vary depending on which curtain tape you use or how loosly or tightly you make the pleats - see the Rufflette heading tape section for details of your chosen heading tape then follow this calculation.

1. To calculate the number of fabric widths required, multiply the total width of the pole or track by the fullness of your chosen heading tape eg. 2 ¼ . Then divide by the width of your chosen fabric eg 137cm (54″). Round up to the nearest full number.
2. Multiply the curtain length by the number of fabric widths, adding the following allowances to each fabric width.
   a. 10cm (4″) per fabric width for hems and heading.
   b. 2.5cm (1″) per fabric width for shrinkage.
3. Allow additional fabric for pattern matching - the general rule is one full pattern repeat per fabric width. For example, curtains requiring 4 fabric widths will need addition fabric for 3 pattern repeats.

Eg.
Width of pole or track - 152cm (60″)
Width of chosen fabric - 137cm (54″)

152cm (60″) x 2 ¼ = 343cm (135″) then divide by 137cm (54″) - 2 ½ widths
ie 1 ¼ widths of fabric for each curtain. (If necessary round up to 3 widths)
Length of curtains - 216cm (85″)
Multiply the curtain length by number of fabric widths.
216cm (85″) x 3 widths = 648cm (255″)
Add 30cm (12″) for hems (4″ per fabric width) and 8cm (3″) for shrinkage (1″ per fabric width) = 686cm (270″)
Therefore the total amount of fabric required will be 6.86mts (round up to 7mts)
(Don’t forget to add on any extra fabric for pattern repeats if required)

Lining your curtains:
It is a good idea to line your curtains for the following reasons -

1. To protect the face fabric from the effects of sunlight.
2. To add bulk to the curtains which improves drape and gives a more luxurious appearance.
3. To provide light, heat and sound insulation.
4. To give a uniform appearance to the outside of your home.

There are two types of lining, sewn in or loose lining. Rufflette Lining Tape is ideal for loose linings which can be separated from the curtains when cleaning. If using sewn in linings, the amount of lining required is virtually the same as for the main fabric, although you don’t need to allow for pattern matching. If you use loose linings, you will need to 1-1 ½ times fabric fullness with Rufflette Lining Tape.

Curtain Weighting Tape Estimation:
The draping of any curtains, sheers or nets will be significantly improved with curtain weights.

Rufflette Curtain Weighting Tape is the ideal way to weight hems. There are 5 different weights available to suit all requirements and they are simple to use. The amount of curtain weighting tape required is the same as the flat curtain width. Simply tack the tape in place inside the hem of the curtain.

An alternative to using lead weight tape or to use in conjunction with lead tape are Rufflette 25mm Penny Weights. These are also really simple to use, just sew one into each corner and at every join to ensure your curtain hang evenly.

Choosing your fabric:
For attractive looking curtains which will remain in good condition over time and use, purchase your fabric from a reliable retailer/outlet. Fabrics should have good stability to light, minimal shrinkage during the cleaning process and be fit for purpose. With the exception of upholstery fabric, almost all fabrics are suitable for making curtains, so you need to consider not only your taste, but what properties you want from your curtains. Ask yourself the following questions -

1. Do you want the curtains to block out light? If so, you will need a densely woven fabric or a blackout lining used in conjunction with a standard weight of fabric.
2. Do you need a curtain to provide privacy during the day? If so, consider nets or voiles which will let the light in but provide privacy, or use a secondary curtain in conjunction with heavier curtains or blinds, There is a huge choice of Double poles on the market for this purpose.
3. Have you chosen an intricate heading tape such as Smocked Pleat? If so, a plain fabric will show the heading off to its best effect.
4. Does the fabric drape easily? A fabric with a good handle and drape is better for decorative headings, as the tape will hold its shape of pleat more successfully. For more modern style of tapes such as Universal Tempo Wave or Solar Eyelet heading tapes, fabrics with a more stiffer handle across the width are a better option, as they retain their shape more successfully when in use.
5. Are there any special sewing or cleaning instructions you may need to consider?

The thread you use can be important - make sure you purchase suitable thread for use with your chosen fabric going for the shade closest to the main colour in your fabric. It’s best to go for a shade darker than lighter if struggling to match the colour up.

How to … make a Roman Blind

What you will need (the quantity you require will
depend on the desired blind size)

1. Rufflette ivory or translucent roman blind tape
2. Your chosen fabric
3. Matching thread
4. Rufflette white or translucent roman blind rods
5. 5cm x 2cm wooden batten or blind track
6. 2cm x 5mm lath
7. Self adhesive hook and sew-on loop fastener
8. Rufflette roman blind cord
9. Rufflette quick release cord rings
10. Rufflette wooden acorn
11. Rufflette screw eyes
12. Rufflette cleat and screws

Step by step guide to making your Roman Blind 

1.  
   • Firstly, measure your chosen fabric. The length should be the intended drop plus 2cm for the top hem and 7cm for the bottom hem. The fabric width should be the desired width, plus 5cm for each side hem.
   • Turn and press a double 2.5cm side hem and sew. Turn 2cm then 5cm bottom hem and sew, leaving one side open in order to insert the wooden lath to give weight at the bottom of the blind.
   • Next turn and press a 2cm hem at the top of the blind and sew on the loop fastener. This is to attach the blind to the wooden batten or blind track when complete.
   • With the hems completed, divide the fabric into folds substituting your own measurements where appropriate. Subtract 8cm from the blind length. Decide on the number of folds, then divide the fabric and mark with chalk. To do this you must work in half fold lengths - see example calculation below in conjunction with Fig 1. 

Example calculation

Blind length - 152cm
Less 8cm - 144cm
Total folds desired - 5
The last fold is always a half fold
The remaining 4 folds - 8 half folds
Therefore the total number of half folds - 9
(The number of half folds is always an odd number)
144cm divided by 9 = 16cm per half fold
Therefore each full fold will measure 32cm
between the lines of tape and the bottom half fold
will measure 16cm plus 2cm extra. 

• Cut the roman blind tape to the width of the fabric plus 2cm for the side hems and pin the along the chalk lines, leaving 1cm of spare tape at each end.
• Machine the tape along the blue sewing line starting and stopping 1cm in from the ends. Hem one end of the tape. Repeat to attach the remaining lengths of tape.
• Cut the roman blind rods 2cm less than the width of the blind and insert into the free ends of the roman blind tapes. Cut the wooden lath 1cm less than the width of the blind and insert into the bottom hem.
• Turn and Hem the open end of the tapes to secure the rods and the bottom hem. Rods are easily removed through loops for washing.
• To attach the cord, measure in 2cm from the edge of the blind and sew on Rufflette’s quick release rings across the bottom roman blind tape leaving approx 30cm gap between each ring across the width of the blind.
• Fasten the cord, which should measure 1 ½ times the window drop plus the width , to the bottom ring and thread upwards through the loops on the roman blind tape.
• Fix the wooden batten or blind track to the wall/window.
• Attach the blind by fixing the loop fastener to the front of the batten/track.
• Thread the cords through the screw eyes along the wooden batten or the cord guides on the blind track.
• To finish, thread the cord ends through the wooden acorn and attach the cleat hook to the wall.

Helpful Tips

Use a Rufflette Roman Blind Kit

The Roman Blind Kit is the ideal solution for making your own roman blinds. The kit comes with 10m Translucent Roman Blind Tape, Sew-on loop fastener, blind cord, quick release rings, a wooden acorn, a brass cleat and full roman blind instructions. It is suitable for making a blind to fit a window up to 183cm (6ft) wide by 183cm (6ft) drop.

Sewing your roman blind tape

Don’t forget, when sewing your tape to your blind the blue sewing line should be at the top of the tape.

Rufflette Measuring Guide and Tips - BLINDS

Measuring your window for blinds

When measuring your window for blinds you need to decide whether you want your blind to fit inside or outside the recess. The measuring technique is the same for Venetians and Woven Wood Blinds. Make sure there is nothing that will obstruct your blind from hanging properly and that you will still be able to open your window easily once the blind is fitted. To find what size of blind you need to order, just follow the simple steps below.

Tip - Always use a steel or wooden rule when measuring as cloth tapes can stretch and take all measurements to the nearest millimetre (mm)

INSIDE RECESS

1. Firstly measure the width of the recess in 2 places (as shown in the picture), this is to allow for any slight irregularity in the window.
2. Take a note of the smallest of these measurements.
3. Do the same for the drop, again taking the smallest measurement.
4. Deduct 12mm from the width measurement to allow for clearance.
5. You do not need to deduct anything from the drop measurement for Venetian or Roman Blinds.
6. The drop includes any pelmets and valances at the top of the blind.
7. The recess also needs to be at least 80mm (approx. 3″) deep to allow for fittings

OUTSIDE RECESS

1. Just measure the exact width and drop you would like the blind to cover (as shown in the picture), make sure you include a minimum overlap on both sides and top and bottom of 45mm (approx. 1 ¾”).
2. Don’t forget to take into account of the position of the operating mechanisms.

All Rufflettes blinds are supplied with all the fittings you need along with instructions for easy installation.

Helpful Tips - to create the perfect finish for your blind

Valance Returns

For blinds fitted outside the recess , optional valance returns are available to attach to the side edge of the pelmet for neatness. These are available for both Venetian and Woven Wood Blinds.

Decorative Blind Pulls

Rufflette offers a selection of crafted pulls to customise your blind or light cords.

Rufflette Measuring Guide and Tips - Curtain Poles

Measuring your window for a curtain pole

 There are 2 simple steps to follow when measuring your window for a pole.

1. Decide where you want the pole to be positioned - we recommend above the window frame on the back wall.
2. Measure the required width allowing for
   a) space either side of the window for the curtains to be drawn back - we advise 150mm minimum for each side.
   b) the length of finial, if you find space is tight you may need to use our end cap option.

Things to remember

• When placing an order for a made to measure pole remember to specify whether you are giving the finished pole length (this is the length including the finials) or the pole length excluding the finials.
• Always use a steel or metal rule for measurements as cloth tapes can stretch.
• When measuring the curtain length you will need for your pole, think about where you need to measure from. For pencil pleat curtains measure from the eye - the small metal ring at the bottom of each curtain ring. This will prevent the pole or rings from being obscured by the curtain. Or for Tab Top and Eyelet curtains measure from the very top of the pole.

Fitting your curtain pole and brackets

 NB: Use rawl plugs if fixing the pole to dry wall, plaster or concrete.

1. Mark on the wall with a pencil where your bracket is to be positioned using the3 point fixing plate. The brackets should be positioned approx 6-7cm from either end of the curtain pole. Ensure that the brackets are placed an equal  distance from the window frame and if your pole requires a centre bracket, it is positioned to hide the join. We recommend using a centre bracket on poles over 180cm (6ft) in length.
2. Drill holes and secure fixing plate using the screws provided.
3. Place the bracket on to the fixing plate and secure in place by tightening the grub screw positioned at the base of the bracket. If using more than one pole, now use your joining piece to secure them together.
4. Once the brackets are in place, fit the finials of your choice and position the pole on the brackets, ensuring the rings are in place - at least one ring needs to be in-between the finial and bracket to anchor the curtain.
5. With metal poles secure by tightening the grub screws positioned on the end of the bracket.

Rufflette has two very different pole collections, Visions and Grandeur. The Visions Collection consists of 19mm and 28mm steel poles, with a variety of  contemporary finials and decorative magnets for each size. The Grandeur Collection is made up of 48mm Wooden Poles for a more classical look, this collection also comes with a variety of finials and a selection of holdbacks to match.

How To … Choose which curtain hook to use

Plastic or Metal?

The choice of plastic or metal hooks is very much down to personal preference. Nylon hooks are the strongest for general use with plastic gliders, and metal hooks should be used with metal gliders. It is possible to use metal hooks with plastic gliders but it is not recommended to use plastic hooks with metal gliders - the hooks can be cut through quite quickly by the weight of the curtain.

Zinc versus Brass

Again, this is down to personal preference. Traditionally brass hooks were used to compliment brass curtain poles which are obviously still very popular today. Brass is more expensive, therefore, steel zinc offers a cheaper alternative.

Specialist

Deep Pleat hooks are used to create variably spaced triple pleats. The long neck hooks are used for hanging your curtain below the pole and a short neck for suspending from a track.

Pin hooks are used with a curtain heading buckram to hang hand pleated headings and are adequate for general work. However, sewn on brass hooks are recommended if the curtains are unusually heavy.